Mt. Pulag/ Ambangeg Trail (2,922+)

MT. PULAG (AMBANGEG TRAIL)
Major jump-off: Ambangeg, Kabayan, Benguet
LLA: 16°34'58"N 120°53'15"E, 2922 MASL (#3)
Level and days required: Level 3, 3-5 days
Hours to summit / Days required: 4-5 hours / 2 days
Specs: Major Climb, Difficulty 3/9, Trail class 3

BACKGROUND
Majestic Mt. Pulag is highest peak in Luzon and the dream destination of every Filipino outdoorsman. Its fabled views, of winding slopes of dwarf bamboo, and distant peaks surging like islets in the ocean of lofty clouds, comprise perhaps the most beautiful photo-op in Philippine mountaineering. The native tribes say that Mt. Pulag is the "playground of the gods". In Luzon, it is literally the closest to heaven that mountaineers can get!

The enchantment of Pulag, however, is much greater than just the clouds and dwarf bamboo. The entire experience is a great treat that makes the long travel time (10 hours from Manila to Baguio then Baguio to the jump-off) worth it. Whichever trail you choose - the easy Ambangeg, the challenging Akiki, the arduous Vizcaya trail, or the various traverse climbs - Pulag is a great adventure. Of course, many would opt to do different trails in one climb, the most common of which is the Akiki-Ambangeg combination.

When you climb Mt. Pulag, you would already start off on a high altitude. The cool weather is refreshing; if you are not prepared the weather will become a great burden because temperature have been recorded at -2 C. But with proper preparation, the cold weather is quite an experience. Pine trees are everywhere, and you will encounter villages of the Kankaney and Ibaloi tribe. Their children are very cute, and bear a resemblance to the high altitude peoples of the world, such as the Eskimos. Their main livelihood is agriculture; you will pass through sloped plots of cabbages, lettuce, potataos, and other crops that ultimately find their way in Baguio's famed markets. Bear in mind that the region is the 'Salad Bowl' of the Philippines.

THE TRAILS OF MT. PULAG
The map illustrates the approximate locations of each trail, as well as its path, in relation with the summit of Mt. Pulag. The Ambangeg Trail is discussed in this main article. Visit also the Akiki Trail and the Tawangan Trail.

THE AMBANGEG TRAIL
It is very convenient to make arrangements for jeepneys from Baguio to take you directly to the Badabak Ranger Station. This significantly cuts climbing time, and it makes possible a 2-day Pulag climb. If you arrive early in the morning in Baguio, you can take the jeep and be at the Ranger Station by lunchtime.

From the Ranger Station to the summit is around 8 kms. First you will pass by wide trails, surrounded by pine trees and picturesque landscape. After awhile, you will enter the montane forest, with its grand spectrum of flora - from the pink flowers known locally as ayusep (see photo) and various mosses to the archaic, bonsai-shaped trees. The next landmark in the middle of the mossy forest is Camp 1, marked by a hut.

In the entirety of the trek to the grassland, there's only one moderately steep part, taking just a few hundred steps. Actually the trail is very relaxing and enjoyable, with the cool weather and the encounter of various faces of the mountain (pine trees, montane forest, grassland). At the montane forest, you will catch the first glimpse of the Pulag summit, which has a hue of golden brown.

There are a few campsites to choose from: Camp 1 is still within the mossy forest area; in Camp 2 the grassland is just beginning (2600+ MASL). There is also another campsite which goes beyond the summit, on the way to the Akiki trail. This is the saddle campsite and is preferred by those who want close proximity to the summit. Camp 2 is the most advisable campsite, with a close water source, latrines (work in progress), nice views, and more manageable weather conditions. However, the saddle campsite, being very the near the summit, takes you as close to the sky as possible. Either way, brace yourself! Temperatures can really plummet to near-freezing levels.

Ranger Station to Campsite 2 takes around 3 hours. From this camp, the summit assault is typically done either late afternoon (for the sunset) and very early morning (for the sunrise). The trail beyond this point is offers unparalleled grassland landscapes, with the grand array of the Cordillera mountains as backdrop. The dwarf bamboo grass that envelope the slopes is a wondrous presence. After an hour of trekking, you will finally reach the summit, that is, the highest point in Luzon.

The summit views of Pulag are fabled and legendary. On a blessed time, seas of clouds form beneath, covering everything but the highest points in the Cordilleras: Mt. Amuyao rises very distinctly northeast, then the twin Mts. Kapiligan and Napulauan (NNE). The picture on the left shows the blogger's hands at Amuyao (L) and Napulauan (R). Mt. Tabayoc (N) and Pulag is separated by Mt. Panotoan (N). Then moving your eyes westward, you will see the the mountains of Tenglawan and Kibungan (NW), and you will also appreciate Mt. Timbak (WNW), said to be the Luzon's third highest point. The range from which Mt. Timbak rises is one where the Halsema highroad, the Philippines' highest highway, passes. In this range one can also see Mt. Pawoi (W). Beyond this, further west, is already the Ilocos region. Baguio City and Mt. Sto. Tomas continue the visual circle (WSW) and if the sea of clouds is lower than 2100 MASL, you can also see Mt. Ugu (S). These are objective sights to see, but the subjective feeling of being there, above the clouds, is hard to put in words. How beautiful exactly? One has to go to Pulag in order to find out. It will be more than worth it.

ITINERARY
THE "WEEKEND PULAG" ITINERARY

Day 0
2300 Take Victory Liner trip to Baguio (P390). Reserve tickets ahead to be sure.

Day 1
0500 ETA Baguio City. Breakfast then proceed to jeepney terminal/chartered jeep.
0700 Take chartered jeepney to Ambangeg.
1100 At Ambangeg, register at Protected Area Office (P150). Orientation.
1130 Set out for Ranger Station
1230 ETA and heavy lunch at Ranger.
1300 Start trek to Campsite 2
1430 ETA Camp 1
1600 ETA Camp 2. Set up camp; optional summit assault.
1800 Dinner at campsite; socials

Day 2
0430 Optional early morning trek to summit for sunrise
0545 Arrival at summit just in time for sunrise
0700 Start descent from summit
0800 Back at Camp 2; heavy breakfast
0900 Decamp; start descent to Ranger Station
1130 Back at Ranger; Settle guide fees; jeepney descent
1230 At DENR-PAO; tidy up and log out
1400 Head back to Baguio City
1700 ETA Baguio City. Buy return tickets. Dinner.
1900 Head back to Manila

SPECIAL CONCERNS

Scheduling. Mt. Pulag is accessible throughout the year, but it is much more advisable to climb it during the early months of the year, for many reasons. Bad weather, for instance, may not allow the jeep to reach the Ranger Station. Also, clouds may very well obscure the fabled Pulag views, which may lead to disappointment. Moreover, rainy conditions would make it even colder. Thus the advisable time frame for Pulag is between December-early May. This is the dry season -- and although there's no assurance of really clear skies, there's greater chance of seeing it in this season.

Logistics. There are two important contacts to know when climbing Mt. Pulag. First is that of Mang Roger, who arranges jeepney transportation from Baguio City to the Ranger Station (and elsewhere, i.e. the Akiki jump-off). He may be contacted at +639208068656. For the itinerary detailed above, the going rate for the jeepney transportation ranges from P8000-9000. For small groups, the mode of transportation is by bus -- take the A Liner Bus in Dangwa at Baguio City (around P120). This passes by the Visitors' Center in Ambangeg, and from there you can either rent a jeep up Ranger, walk the road up, or have motorcycles ('habal-habal') to take you to Ranger Station.

The other contact is the DENR Park Superintendent for the Mt. Pulag National Park, Ma'am Emerita Tamiray. She may be reached at +639196315402. Groups usually fax their plans to DENR (Mt. Pulag National Park) office in Baguio ahead of time, to (074) 444 7428. Or you can also text/call Ma'am Mering through her cellphone. You do not have to worry about guides or porters because the system in Pulag is orderly. If in need of an extra tent, one may be rented at the Ranger Station for P75. As for guides, the rate is P500/guide for 1-5 persons, and P100 for each addition person thereafter. The maximum number of persons/guide is 10 (P1000) but with 11 persons, the cost is just (P1100). Porters may also be secured at P300/day.

Victory Liner is the bus line with the most number of trips to Baguio. Seats are numbered and it is advisable to reserve tickets beforehand especially for large groups. A 2300H departure time is optimal for the itinerary above.

Facilities. You can take a bath or rinse either at the Ranger Station or the Protected Area Office. There are latrines in Camp 2, and a water source is also present in the mossy forest just before the grassland. Cellphone signal exists in many parts of the trail, including the ranger station, the campsite, and the summit.

Health and safety: The extreme weather of Mt. Pulag has taken its toll on climbers; hypothermia is a common complication. Also, take note that high altitudes have less oxygen content. Persons with asthma or other pulmonary conditions must seek a physician's go-signal first before proceeding. Medications such as epinephrine and may be included on the group's first aid kit. Epinephrine is also useful for anaphylactic shock (severe allergic reaction) which is a possibility considering that Mt. Pulag's conifers and pollens . Even veteran climbers, when scaling Pulag from December to February, should prepare for weather extremes. The wind chill factor at the summit can take its toll, even as temperature very rarely goes subzero. Check your equipment also if it can withstand such. One advantage of the cold, though, is that food is better preserved, acting like a refrigerator.

Another must-bring medicine is Meclizine (i.e. Bonamine) because the rough-road trip from Baguio to the Ranger Station, and back, is really nauseating. If you forget this, however, you can buy them at the stopovers shops along the road (i.e. Km. 50).

Miscellaneous. You can buy souvenir bonnets (P35) and shirts (P180) at the Protected Area Office. Also, you can leave your group or personal effects (i.e. IDs, pictures, posters) to join the memorabilia displayed at the office lobby. If you wish to have climb certificates, you can print them in advance, leave them before you climb, and pick it up upon signing out.

TRIVIA
There used to be a dog named Chica which guides mountaineers up the mountain. In 2003, when the blogger first climbed Mt. Pulag, Chica followed all the way to the summit. It was a chillingly cold November. For full story, see the feature on Chica.

Parts of Mt. Pulag are claimed as "ancestral domains" of the different tribes, such as the Kankaney, Ibaloi, and Kalanguya tribes. The guides and porters belong to these indigenous communities.

Each mountaineering group has its own trivia about Pulag. It is the mainstay destination in the Philippines - of which they'd say "you're missing half of your life if you haven't climbed Pulag!"

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Mt. Pulag, the rooftop of Luzon

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